Wednesday, October 24, 2007

End of the Earth, All Over the World, and Outer Space.

At the risk of "going too far"… may I suggest travel to...

END OF THE EARTH

There is a silly argument regarding the southernmost town on earth. It’s like sibling rivalry, with Punta Arenas and Ushuaia competing for bragging rights as the city at fin del mundo - “the end of the world”. Both towns claim to be the world's southernmost, which matters mainly to people who sell mugs and T-shirts and, this being South America, to passionate locals.
Ushuaia, in Argentina, population 65,000, is a place to eat and sleep and party a little while waiting to grab a ride on an Antarctica-bound excursion vessel or as a base for exploring semi-tamed chunks of Tierra del Fuego. On local signage and souvenirs, Ushuaia declares itself fin del mundo--end of the world.
Punta Arenas, in Chile, population 115,000, is indeed north of Ushuaia. But, here is the catch: "Ushuaia is on an island," notes a veterinarian who happens to be Chilean, specifically Isla Grande de Tierra del Fuego. Punta Arenas, she further notes, is not. It's on the mainland. "If we allow islands," she ultimately notes, "there is Puerto Williams." It is a modest (population 2,000) settlement south of Ushuaia, on a Beagle Channel island, in Chile. So Chile's Puerto Williams, strictly speaking (and not counting Antarctica, whose largest town is a few shacks with instruments), is at the fin del mundo.
Cruise ships sailing around Cape Horn stop at one or both, and they deserve that. They would even be worth an extra day if the big boats weren't in so much of a hurry. In the era before regularly scheduled airline service, Ushuaia was home to a prison (location, location, location) and was a lively port for exporting wool, timber and a little gold. The prison closed in 1947 and is a museum, the gold didn't last, timber is scarce these days and the wool business isn't what it was, which leaves tourism as the primary local industry. The main drag in Ushuaia, Avenida San Martin, looks like many other tourist strips around the world, a concentration of souvenir shops, lodgings, restaurants, tour offices, photo processors, Internet cafes and places to quench thirst, plus they have a casino.

It is rumored that the the restaurants are a little better in Punta Arenas, which really matters--aside from both being surrounded by Tierra del Fuego and the rest of Patagonia, which counts for something. They also have the closest decent airport to Torres del Paine, the mind-blowing national park a day's drive away. That's reason enough to get down here.

And one last point: Both Ushuaia and Punta Arenas have accessible penguins.
(contains info from an article by Alan Solomon Chicago Tribune, October 14, 2007)
8 Top Adventures – All Over The World.
(this collection first appeared on Forbes.com)

As long as we talking about Antarctica, let’s start there and explore some other adventures All Over the World. Here, listed in alphabetical order, are eight “places you should see before you die”.

Antarctica

Why it's worth it: The Antarctic landscape: enormous icy mountains, icebergs and wildlife, including 17 species of penguin.

How to do it: Book a tour with an established operator like Abercrombie & Kent. Tour prices start around $6,000, not including airfare. From New York, a popular route is to fly into Santiago, Chile, which costs about $1,000 on TAM or LAN airlines--if you don't fly direct ($3,000 if you do). From there, travelers fly to Ushuaia, the port town on the southern tip of Argentina from which most Antarctica-bound vessels leave. Crossing the Drake Passage, the body of water between the southern tip of South America and the Antarctic Peninsula, takes about two days.

Copper Canyon, Mexico

Why it's worth it:
Located in Mexico's largest state, Chihuahua, the Copper Canyon actually consists of more than 20 canyons, running over 20,000 square miles and four times as large as the Grand Canyon.

How to do it: Chihuahua City, Mexico, is about ten hours via plane from New York; tickets on Continental are about $600. From Fierro Villalobos, the Chihuahua City airport, it's 30 or 40 minutes to the city center, where the Copper Canyon train terminal is located. The rail journey past Copper Canyon, 406 miles, connects Chihuahua with the Pacific Ocean and passes bridges, tunnels and the spectacular network of canyons on the way. We recommend Tauk tours for this.

Easter Island, Chile

Why it's worth it:
This Polynesian island is volcanic, with lush green fields and an endless panorama of blue sky. Odd to think of “Polynesia” and “Chile” in the same context, but there it is. The island is scattered with moai, stone monoliths 13 feet high, carved in the shape of human heads and which scientist believe were created for ceremonial reasons between A.D. 1400 and 1600. Rapanui, the island's inhabitants, number about 2,000.

How to do it: This desolate island in the South Pacific is accessible via direct flight from Santiago, Chile, which is about 2,000 miles away. The cost is just over $1,000 from Santiago on LAN Airlines; a ticket from New York to Santiago also costs about $1,000 on LAN or TAM.
Faroe Islands, Denmark

Why it's worth it: The Faroe Islands are an 18-island archipelago, located midway between Iceland and Norway and technically a self-governing region of Denmark. The main industry is fishing, although tourism accounts for a significant portion of the economy too. The islands' climate is mild, tempered by the Gulf Stream, and the dramatic shore is lined with volcanic basalt cliffs. Ornithologists will be particularly at home with over 300 species of birds to observe. This is a true destination for “oneupsmanship”. When you boast about this adventure it is a fair bet you won’t find anyone who counters your story with their account of “when I was there…”.

How to do it: You can't fly direct from New York; on a typical Continental flight, travelers change planes twice on the way over (once in Germany and then again in Copenhagen) and just once (Copenhagen) on the way back. This journey will cost you $3,400.

Galapagos Islands, Ecuador

Why it's worth it: The islands are teeming with species not found elsewhere; the chance to observe giant tortoises or snorkel with sea cucumbers is reason enough for most. This is a highly ecologically sensitive destination, and the Ecuadorian government is considering limiting tourism here. Get it while you can.

How to do it: From New York, flights to the Ecuadorean city of Quito on Avianca Aerovias cost about $500. Two Ecuadorean airlines, TAME and Aerogal, fly direct to the Galapagos from Quito and Guayaquil. These flights take only 30 to 45 minutes, but because supply is limited (fewer than ten a week), they can cost up to $390. Passengers land in San Cristobal or Baltra, outside of the Galapagos National Park. Approaches by cruise ship are possible too, but there is a wide discrepancy in quality between lines. Once in the Galapagos, if you're traveling independently, you must hire a trained naturalist guide.

Machu Picchu, Peru
Why it's worth it: The Machu Picchu ruins, nestled in the jagged Andes mountain range, were only discovered in 1911. The ruins of the former settlement, thought to have been a royal estate or place of religious significance, once housed about 1,200 people. Today, native Peruvians selling hand-made crafts like scarves and hats crowd the ruins' entrance. Professional guides with archeological backgrounds add depth and meaning to all you see.

How to do it: We recommend hosted tours for ease of travel and security. If you are inclined to travel independently, for about $1,000, Lan Peru flies directly to Cuzco from Miami, and the journey takes about nine hours. From there, travelers take a train to Machu Picchu, which can cost between $70 and $500, depending on the level of luxury required. Several four-day guided hikes are available from Cuzco to Machu Picchu as well, starting at $300 (it's a distance of 43 miles). From Aguas Calientes, the town just outside the ruins, buses or a 45-minute climb will take you to the ruins themselves, where tickets cost about $20.

Mount Kilimanjaro, Tanzania

Why it's worth it: The glacial ice topping Mount Kilimanjaro, Africa's tallest free-standing mountain, has begun to disappear in recent years, so go now. Top tour companies such as Abercrombie and Kent include views of this highlight with broader range African tours. If you are high on the adventure scale you can do this independently and add this climb to your log. There are several routes to the top, each of which enjoys spectacular vistas over the surrounding landscape; guides for the week-long journey can be hired at the mountain's base for about $2,000, including lodging.

How to do it: Direct flights are not available from New York to Kilimanjaro International Airport, but multileg journeys are. For example: New York to Nairobi, Kenya, via Dubai on Emirates, and then Nairobi to Kilimanjaro, Tanzania, via Precision Air is available for about $1,600. Northwest Airlines and KLM also fly to Kilimanjaro, through Amsterdam. From the airport, Kilimanjaro National Park is about an hour's drive, and guides can be hired at the mountain's base.

Tibet

Why it's worth it: Tibet's Himalayan backdrop is as enchanting as it is austere. The Potala Palace in Lhasa, which dates back to the seventh century A.D., is a major draw, but venturing into Yarlung Valley, with its temples, caves and monasteries, is rewarding as well.

How to do it: Your adventure quota determines what is best for you to experience Tibet. Well structured tours will bring a lot of stability and predictability while still providing fantastic access to this exotic destination. If you really crave an up close and personal experience you can travel Tibet independently – but you need a lot of patience and a high degree of tolerance for travel standards that are very different from home. Most Americans enter Tibet through China; direct flights from New York to Beijing on Continental cost about $800. From Beijing, flights to Lhasa Gonggar airport, about 60 miles from Lhasa, cost as much as $800 on China Eastern Airlines (from Chengdu airport flights are cheaper; you can also take a train to Lhasa). From the airport, travelers rent cars for the drive into the city.

OUTER SPACE - How far can you go?

Let’s take this “ends of the earth” theme all the way. This is for real.
In 2009, Richard Branson will introduce Virgin Galactic, the so-called "world's first spaceline." Departing from the Mojave Desert, the 2.5 hour journey will cost $200,000 per person and be the first commercial venture into outer space; passengers will enter zero gravity, experience weightlessness and view the world from 62 miles above.

Branson is betting the allure of the unknown--as well as the three-day "training" period, where passengers reside in spa-like quarters where they are fitted for space gear and prepared for the journey--will have 'em lining up. You can check it out at their web site http://www.virgingalactic.com/
If you want to book a space flight, let me know. I should have my Accredited Space Agent credentials very soon.

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Tuesday, October 09, 2007

Bahamas, Azamara, 3:1:1

Bahamas again, and again.
It is Monday and I’m looking out over the harbor in Nassau, for what seems like the hundredth time. I first set foot here about 25 years ago. I thought it was exotic, and beautiful, and full of history, mystery, and adventure. I still do.

As I have spent the past quarter of a century in the travel business I must have heard this statement dozens of times: “I’ve been to the Bahamas. I want to go somewhere different”. That seems curious to me, because every time I visit the Bahamas it is a different place.

Some people seem to approach travel like they are going places to check off squares on a big bingo board. “Been there done that”. I think they miss one of the most valuable travel experiences by not revisiting some destinations. When you revisit the same place over time you build a personal history that ads context to your visit.

I first visited Nassau when I was a young and restless sales rep for Dolphin Cruise Line. We were a one ship cruise line. The Dolphin IV held a few hundred people but when we dropped in on Nassau we really made an impact on downtown enterprises like the straw market – the old one that was informal, outdoors, and full of aggressive craft sellers. My crew mates and I could take over a local watering hole like the Green Shutters Pub and leave an impression that brought recognition when we returned years later.

It is different today. I’m perched in the newly renovated Sheraton Cable Beach hotel, watching mega-ships come and go from the harbor. When the crowds disembark they see a very different Nassau than I remember in the 1980’s. Downtown has grown to accommodate the larger crowds, and enough time has passed that I’m watching from a hotel that was new on my first visit, but has aged through several hotel chains, changed with the fashion of the day, and become a born again beauty today. Everything changes, and it is pretty much all good.

Sure the Bahamas have changed, and I see lots of positives. It is nostalgic to look back on those “old days”, but I must admit that the Bahamas are a better place today. It is safer, cleaner, and truly friendlier. I love the stronger work ethic. The accents have thinned to be more easily understood. It has changed, but that is ok.

And that is just the point. If you only visit a place once, you only have a snapshot of a point in time. When you visit, and revisit, you have history and you get to know a place in context. It is almost like watching kids grow up. To truly appreciate what you see today, it helps to have known them “back when”. And to appreciate some place tomorrow, it helps to experience it today.

I love visiting the Bahamas, again, and again, most especially because I do have some history here. The old Bahamian style still exists if you dig a little. You’ll find more of that style if you visit the Out Islands. That is exactly what I was doing on this trip – setting up some opportunities for a few hundred lucky soles to visit the Out Islands. For their sakes I hope they come back again, and again.

New Cruise Line for special Niche
For those who want to live the high life on the high seas but find most cruise ships too big, a new line of boutique ships from Azamara Cruises could be just the ticket.Azamara, which launched in May, is a joint venture between Royal Caribbean Cruises Limited and Celebrity Cruises. The luxury line’s two 710-passenger vessels, Journey and Quest, aim to raise the bar on personalized service and attention, while simultaneously tapping a growing segment of the industry.

“[We] created Azamara Cruises to target an area of the market that we believe is underserved, and an area this product is ideally suited to fill,” Royal Caribbean Chairman and CEO Richard Fain said.

If you’re a traveler wanting some serious comfort and pampering in a relaxed environment, Azamara has what you’re looking for.

On board these floating palaces there are no formal nights -- the dining rooms are open seating. But each stateroom comes with butler service, fresh-cut flowers, fresh fruit, Elemis toiletries, complimentary use of Frette cotton robes, two complimentary pairs of slippers, plasma TV’s and European bedding. As an added perk, guests are invited to a complimentary dinner on each cruise in the ship’s two fee-based specialty restaurants. Passengers have a choice of the Mediterranean-influenced "Aqualina" and the steak and seafood restaurant, "Prime C." Both feature commanding views of the ocean.
It’s the details on these “deluxe” cruises that put them a notch above premium lines such as Carnival’s Holland America and the Princess ships.

Planned itineraries for the remainder of 2007 include Bermuda, Panama Canal and South America. Voyages for the 2008 season include Asia, the Caribbean, South America and Europe. Around-the-world voyages are scheduled to begin in 2010.

(With contributions by Ryan Ruggiero CNBC.com)

Tip of the Week
Air travel is rough these days with so many people in such tight quarters. Lines are long, and they are made longer with increased security measures. We need the increased safety. Those security check points are painful but necessary.

You can ease your pass through the security lines by abiding by the 3:1:1 rule. If you are going to carry personal care items such as aerosols, gels, and liquids in your carry-on bag you should pack accordingly. Pack them in containers no larger than 3 ounces, collected in a 1 quart clear zip lock bag, only one bag per passenger. You won’t be stopped in the security line and you’ll avoid having your stuff confiscated.

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Thursday, October 04, 2007

Costa Rica - Pura Vida

La Fortuna – it means “The Lucky Ones”. It describes all the fortunate folks who choose Costa Rica as their vacation destination. It also is Costa Rica’s most popular tourist town, which got its name because they escaped a volcano eruption that buried all the neighboring towns (more on that in a minute).

This place really is paradise, pleasing to the widest array of travelers. Toucans perched atop the palm trees, waterfalls plunging through the rainforests, volcanoes steaming ominously in the background, and some of the worlds most beautiful beaches. Eco-travelers, surfers, sports fishers, beach bums, and adventure seekers of all kind come for “Pura Vida” – the pure life.

But perhaps Costa Rica is most rich in its people—the 4 million friendly Ticos who seem genuinely happy to see you. They want you to relax, to kick back with an Imperial beer and order a “casada,” or “married man’s leftovers” (a preset plate of rice; black beans; plantains; fried yucca; and either chicken, fish, beef or pork). They’d like you to spend at least two weeks in their country to see it all: the highlands, the lowlands, the Pacific and Caribbean sides.

I have found the Costa Ricans to be special. Here is one of my favorite Tico stories.

I believe in magic – the kind that comes from special coincidences beyond all odds. Merlin is a manager at one of my favorite resorts, “Si Como No”. It is an upscale collection of suites that cling to the mountainside overlooking the Pacific coast with a lackadaisical ambiance that reflects the name which translates to “Sure, why not”. I had a meeting scheduled with Merlin but in typical Tico Time he was not available until mid-day. Taking advantage of the local options I spent the morning surfing and lounging on a gorgeous beach shared with two other people and a few howler monkeys that scurried in and out of the jungle backdrop.

Soaking up the tropical sun I chose a cliché book to entertain myself: “A Pirate Looks at Fifty”, by Jimmy Buffet. I say it was cliché because he makes his living off creating a faux tropic experience for a bunch of Yankees who use his songs and a Corona as a substitute for actually experiencing the real world outside their borders. Like the Parrotheads that follow him I always suspected the much of Jimmy’s adventures were the creation of good story telling.

The chapter I happened to read on this particular morning started something like this: “No matter where you happen to be right now, I’m going to take you to Paradise”. Jimmy described a perfect beach, in Costa Rica – the very same beach I was sitting on in Manuel Antonio precisely at that moment. Wow, what a coincidence. But wait, it gets better.
The story develops to a scene of a New Years Eve party at Si Como No – no kidding, I’m heading there later this morning. At the poolside party Jimmy is linked arm-in-arm with other revelers trying to sing in Spanish, but he gets the words wrong. The locals are laughing as he sings: “Felice Anos”. The resort manager, Merlin, politely tells him: “Jimmy, you are wishing them happy assholes. Say it ‘felice anyos’. Wait a minute – I have a meeting with the same Merlin this morning!

I asked Merlin how much of that scene was true, and how much was just good story telling. He assured me that Mr. Buffet’s account was truly accurate. Well, if that story is true, I suppose we can accept his other yarns of adventure too. I know you can count on this for sure – Jimmy, Merlin, and I agree that Costa Rica is perhaps the finest tropical adventure you will ever experience.

The Pacific Coast is awesome. It has some of the world’s best surf, and sport fishing. The mountains run to the sea like a more tropical version of California, but without the development. If you want to visit Si Como No you’ll need to target the small town of Quepos, and head a bit south on the road to the National Park Manuel Antonio. Getting there is not easy, which is probably one reason it remains so special.

Costa Rica can get your adrenalin going. Covered in rainforest, it provides some outrageous zipline—a.k.a. canopy tours—through the rainforests, or balance your way across hanging (and swinging) bridges strung high above the jungle floor, here you can come face to face with howler monkeys, sloth (called “branch potatoes”), toucans, tarantulas and, for the biggest bragging rights, rare, resplendent quetzals or even jaguars and black panthers. Or, target world class white water rafting that runs through Category 5 thrillers.

Live Volcanoes are an asset and Costa Rica likes to show them off. Scattered up and down the isthmus are cauldrons in various stages of development, including Arenal which is one of the 10 most active volcanoes on the planet. The National Park is best visited at night for the full effect. In the silence it sounds like popcorn popping—only it’s lava bubbling from the volcano. Hit the trail so you can see the red lava oozing from its cone at nightfall. As you get closer the popping sounds more like the Fourth of July. Finally, the periodic crescendo: large boulders spurting from the volcano and crashing down the mountain, cracking on impact; sparks flying; and a brilliant red glow lighting the night sky.

In 1968 the volcano erupted burying the nearby villages of Pueblo Nuevo, San Luis and Tabacón. It spared La Fortuna, so they gave it the name of “The Lucky One”. I would bestow that name on all those who visit Costa Rica, and grow to appreciate “Pura Vida” – “The Pure Life”.

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